esirable place for small plantings. If a large scale increase is
contemplated it is best to plant the seeds where the trees may be left
to grow to maturity. Plant two or three seeds a few inches apart (within
a hill) and space these hills as the land available will warrant,
anywhere from twenty-five to fifty feet apart. Should all the nuts
sprout there will be a three-to-one chance for a healthy tree, and if
more than one good tree is produced in each hill the excess stock may be
transplanted. After the stock has grown for one year it should be cut
back to within four inches from the ground. Such stock makes good
material for experimental grafting. By pruning the stock in the spring
it forces new growth upon which to place buds later in the season. In
the budding process the Jones patch budder has been very successfully
used.

Along the southern shore of Lake Erie the first week in July is a
favorable time to begin this procedure. Due to the fact that the
northeast side of the tree is the coolest and shadiest the greater part
of the day, there the buds should be set. With the budding tool cut
through the bark of the stock, several inches above the start of the new
growth. Do not remove the bark. This produces a gathering of
callus-forming material at this point and aids in the healing in of the
bud which is to be later placed there. My experience shows successful
results in many instances where I had failed to make this previous cut.

Bud wood should be new and vigorous growth, the first five or six buds
nearest the spot from which the growth started being the best. When the
bud wood is available cut off the first four or five leaf stalks close
to the buds. By the time the buds are ready for use the remainder of the
leaf stalk will have ripened or dried and fallen off, and the bark
underneath hardened off. If this is not the case the bark is apt to rot
at this point, which is directly beneath the bud itself. Bud wood,
procured from any source, should be trimmed with the stub of the leaf
stalk cut as closely as possible to the bark. If the budding is not done
immediately those cuttings may be wrapped and stored in a cool place
(about 40 deg. F.) for several days before using. In a hot, dry season the
actual budding should be started soon after the middle of July. Due to
the excessive amount of rainfall during 1943, buds which were set on
July 24th yielded poor results, while those applied later in the summer,
about Augu