ing and black strings; two months in black silk,
with white lace collar and cuffs; and two months in gray, purple, white
and violet.

"Mourning for an uncle or aunt is worn for three months, and is the
second mourning named above, tulle, white linen and white bonnet facings
being worn at once. For a nephew or niece, the same is worn for the same
length of time.

"The deepest mourning excludes kid gloves; they should be of cloth, silk
or thread; and no jewelry is permitted during the first month of close
mourning. Embroidery, jet trimmings, puffs, plaits--in fact, trimming of
any kind--is forbidden in deep mourning, but worn when it is lightened.

"Mourning handkerchiefs should be of very sheer fine linen, with a
border of black, very wide for close mourning, narrower as the black is
lightened.

"Mourning silks should be perfectly lusterless, and the ribbons worn
without any gloss.

"Ladies invited to funeral ceremonies should always wear a black dress,
even if they are not in mourning; and it is bad taste to appear with a
gay bonnet or shawl, as if for a festive occasion.

"The mourning for children under twelve years of age is white in summer
and gray in winter, with black trimmings, belt, sleeve ruffles and
bonnet ribbons."

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XXXI.

Harmony of Colors in Dress.

The selection and proper arrangement of colors, so that they will
produce the most pleasant harmony, is one of the most desirable
requisites in dress. Sir Joshua Reynolds says: "Color is the last
attainment of excellence in every school of painting." The same may also
be said in regard to the art of using colors in dress. Nevertheless, it
is the first thing to which we should give our attention and study.

We put bright colors upon our little children; we dress our young girls
in light and delicate shades; the blooming matron is justified in
adopting the warm, rich hues which we see in the autumn leaf, while
black and neutral tints are declared appropriate to the old.

One color should predominate in the dress; and if another is adopted, it
should be in a limited quantity and only by way of contrast or harmony.
Some colors may never, under any circumstances, be worn together,
because they produce positive discord to the eye. If the dress be blue,
red should never be introduced by way of trimming, or _vice versa_. Red
and blue, red and yellow, blue and yellow, and scarlet and crimson may
never be united in the same