trysquare should be used to square the lines
across the pieces, however, gauge for depth, gauging both pieces
from their top surfaces. Chisel out the grooves and round off the
corners as shown in the sketch, using a 3/4-in. radius.

These parts may be put together and fastened to the upright by
means of two long screws from the under side, placed to either
side of the 1/2-in. hole. This hole must be continued through the
pieces forming the base.

The braces are easiest made by taking the two pieces which were
planed to 1-1/8 in. thick and 3 in. square and drawing a diagonal
on each. Find the middle of this diagonal by drawing the central
portion of the other diagonal; at this point place the spur of the
bit and bore a 1-in. hole in each block.

Saw the two blocks apart, sawing

[Illustration: Details of Construction of Library Lamp Stand]

along a diagonal of each. Plane the surfaces on the saw cut smooth
and sandpaper the curve made by the bit. Fasten the braces in
place by means of roundhead blued screws.

To make a shade such as is shown in the illustration is rather
difficult. The shade is made of wood glued up and has art glass
fitted in rabbets cut on the inner edges. Such shades can be
purchased ready to attach. The sketch shows one method of
attaching. Four small pieces of strap iron are bent to the shape
shown and fastened to the four sides of the upright. Electric
globes--two, three or four may be attached as shown.

The kind of wood finish for the stand will depend upon the finish
on the wooden shade, if shade is purchased. Brown Flemish is
obtained by first staining the wood with Flemish water stain
diluted by the addition of two parts water to one part stain. When
this is dry, sandpaper the "whiskers" which were raised by the
water and fill with a medium dark filler. Directions will be found
on the filler cans. When the filler has hardened, apply two coats
of wax.

The metal shade as shown in the sketch is a "layout" for a copper
or brass shade of a size suitable for this particular lamp. Such
shades are frequently made from one piece of sheet metal and
designs are pierced in them as suggested in the "layout." This
piercing is done by driving the point of a nail through the metal
from the under side before the parts are soldered or riveted
together. If the parts are to be riveted, enough additional metal
must be left on the last panel to allow for a lap. No lap is
needed when joints are soldere