ual and to turn as
the Breast on the Coat does to have it made very long Waisted and in
Length to come down to or below the bent of the knee the Waist from the
armpit to the Fold to be exactly as long or Longer than from thence to the
Bottom not to have more than one fold in the Skirt and the top to be made
just to turn in and three Button Holes the Lapel at the top to turn as the
Cape of the Coat and Bottom to Come Parallel with the Button Holes the
Last Button hole in the Breast to be right opposite to the Button on the
Hip."

In 1754 he bought "a Superfine blue broad cloth Coat, with Silver
Trimmings," "a fine Scarlet Waistcoat full Lac'd," and a quantity of
"silver lace for a Hatt," and from another source it is learned that at
this time he was the possessor of ruffled shirts. A little later he
ordered from London "As much of the best superfine blue Cotton Velvet as
will make a Coat, Waistcoat and Breeches for a Tall Man, with a fine silk
button to suit it, and all other necessary trimmings and linings, together
with garters for the Breeches," and other orders at different times were
for "6 prs. of the Very neatest shoes," "A riding waistcoat of superfine
scarlet cloth and gold Lace," "2 prs. of fashionable mix'd or marble
Color'd Silk Hose," "1 piece of finest and fashionable Stock Tape," "1
Suit of the finest Cloth & fashionable colour," "a New Market Great Coat
with a loose hood to it, made of Bleu Drab or broad cloth, with straps
before according to the present taste," "3 gold and scarlet sword-knots,
3 silver and blue do, 1 fashionable gold-laced hat."

As these orders indicated, the young fellow strove to be in the fashion.
In 1755 he wrote his brother, "as wearing boots is quite the mode, and
mine are in a declining state, I must beg the favor of you to procure me a
pair that is good and neat." "Whatever goods you may send me," he wrote
his London agent, "let them be fashionable, neat and good of their several
kinds." It was a great trial to him that his clothes did not fit him. "I
should have enclosed you my measure," he wrote to London, "but in a
general way they are so badly taken here, that I am convinced that it
would be of very little service." "I have hitherto had my clothes made by
one Charles Lawrence in Old Fish Street," he wrote his English factor.
"But whether it be the fault of the tailor, or the measure sent, I can't
say, but, certain it is, my clothes have never fitted me well."

It must not