all. It was a lovely trip.

We heard some of the formal court balls were most amusing. We never went
to them as we had not had ourselves presented formally, though this
could have been easily arranged. The supper usually consisted largely of
ham and spinach, typical of the German Royal simplicity. The dancing was
conducted under difficulties. Reversing was not allowed, and all the
dancers had to go in the same direction. When the Grand Duke wished to
dance, his Chamberlain went in front of him to clear the way, as it was
always dreadfully crowded. The women were not permitted to pick up their
gowns, although trains were _de rigueur_ and no short skirts allowed. As
nearly all the men are in uniform, including spurs, the ladies have to
make frequent trips to the dressing room to repair damages. And yet it
is fatal to wear an old gown, as the Grand Duke has a terrific memory
and will say: "Oh, that is the charming gown you wore at Kiel two years
ago, isn't it?"

All the officers and their wives above the rank of Major must be invited
to the court balls, and, in a small principality like this, those of
lower rank receive invitations too. One Lieutenant, a member of one of
the oldest and poorest Darmstadt families, brought his bride to her
first court ball. She was pretty, but beneath him in social position,
and he had forgotten to tell her the rule about the trains. She lifted
her bridal finery out of the way of the devastating spurs, and was
politely requested by a messenger from Royalty to drop it again. Alas!
She forgot the warning and again switched her train up from the floor,
upon which the oldest _Ehrendame_ (Maid of honour), requested her to
leave the dancing floor. The poor husband felt it so keenly that he
asked to be transferred to a regiment in another town, and his request
was granted.

They have a custom of choosing an _erster Taenzer_ for every big ball.
He is usually one of the young officers of the highest birth, and his
duties are to assist the hostess in every possible way, and lead all the
dances.

Court etiquette is really a most hampering institution. In talking to
the Grand Duke for instance, I might not introduce a topic, he had to
give all the leads. This naturally has a deadening effect on the
conversation. At first the tongue-paralyzing "Yes, Your Royal Highness,"
"No, Your Royal Highness," even more paralyzing in German, "_Ja wohl,
Koenigliche Hoheit_," "_Nein, Koenigliche Hoheit_," had to b