s
Office, published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865).

[74] _Eighty Years of Progress of the United States_ (New York, 1861),
vol. 2, pp. 413-429.

[75] GEORGE GIFFORD, "Argument of [George] Gifford in Favor of the Howe
Application for Extension of Patent" (New York: United States Patent
Office, 1860).

[76] Op. cit. (footnote 34).

[77] _Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
published Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865), "Women's
Ready-Made Clothing," p. 83.

[78] Ibid., p. 64.

[79] National Archives, Record Group 92, Office of the Quartermaster
General, Clothing Book, Letters Sent, volume 17.

[80] The author wishes to acknowledge the valuable help of Mr. Donald
Kloster of the Smithsonian Institution's Division of Military History
for the preceding four references and related information.

[81] Letter of Nov. 4, 1871, to Col. Theo. A. Dodge, USA (Ret.), Boston,
from Quartermaster General M. C. Meigs, in the National Archives, Record
Group 92, Quartermaster General's Office, Letters Sent, Clothing
Supplies, 1871.

[82] _Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10,
_Manufactures_, Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United
States Census Office, Washington, D.C., 1902).

[83] CHARLES M. KARCH, "Needles: Historical and Descriptive," in
_Twelfth Census of the United States, 1900_, vol. 10, _Manufactures_,
Part 4, Special Reports on Selected Industries (United States Census
Office: Washington, D.C., 1902), pp. 429-432.

[84] U.S. patent 1,931,447, issued to Valentine Naftali, Henry Naftali,
and Rudolph Naftali, Oct. 17, 1933. The Naftali machines are
manufactured by the American Machine and Foundry Company and are called
AMF Stitching Machines.

[85] See Appendix V, p. 135, "A Brief History of Cotton Thread."

[86] _The Story of Cotton Thread_ (New York, The Spool Cotton Company,
1933).

[87] J. and P. Coats spool cotton.

[88] Willimantic spool cotton.

[89] New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut,
New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky.
_Eighth Census, 1860, Manufactures_ (United States Census Office,
published by Government Printing Office: Washington, D.C., 1865.)

[90] Sewing-machine manufacture in the South was just beginning to
blossom when it was curtailed by the outbreak of the Civil War. See
Lester sewing machine, figure 109 on page 102.

II. Americ