grade of men's wear fabrics is generally composed of twist warp yarns,
ranging from dark slate gray to light lavender gray. An endless
variety of broad and narrow fine line effects is produced by expert
manipulation and combination of weave and silk decorations, producing
the pleasing effect required for this class of goods. The filling is
nearly always black; but sometimes a dark slate is used.

The cheaper grades are generally made of wool and cotton mixtures and
twists, down to all cotton, in imitation of the better grades.

OVERCOATINGS.--Overcoatings are heavy woolen or worsted fabrics and
heavily teaseled or gigged, giving a rough, hairy appearance. Whether
thick or thin, coarse or fine, they should always be elastic fabrics,
that is, as much so as well fulled woolen goods can be. When hard or
stiff they never make a graceful garment. The special goods made for
overcoats are nearly all soft goods.

Examine different fabrics and classify them into either suitings,
overcoatings, trouserings, etc.

=Experiment 59--Characteristics of a Good Silk Fabric=

Materials: Samples of different cheap silk fabrics.
Reference: _Textiles_, pages 203-218.

There are cheap and expensive silk fabrics on the market. The consumer
is often tempted to buy the cheaper fabric and wonders why there is
such a difference in price. The difference in price is due to the cost
of raw material and additional cost is due to the care in
manufacturing. For example, raw silk costs from $1.35 to $5 a pound
according to its nature, quality, and the country from which it comes.
The cost of throwing silks preparatory to dyeing also varies, the
average being 55 cents a pound for organzine or warp, and 33 cents a
pound for tram and filling. The prices here also vary according to the
nature of the twist imparted to the silk, which is regulated by the
kind of cloth it is to enter into. The cost of dyeing varies from 55
cents a pound upwards to perhaps $1.50 a pound, according to the dye
and the treatment which the silk is to receive in the process of
dyeing. The cost of winding, quilling, and sundry labor items
necessary with soft silk prior to its being woven, will perhaps
average about a cent per yard of woven goods for the cheapest cloths
and range upwards according to the grade of the fabric. The cost of
weaving also varies with the cloth, and may be 9 cents for one fabric
and 25 cents or more per yard for the more expensive.

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