* * * * *

[Illustration: Charleston is the last stronghold of a unified American
upper class; the last remaining American city in which Madeira and Port
and _noblesse oblige_ are fully and widely understood, and are employed
according to the best traditions]

[Illustration: "Railroad ticket!" said the baggageman with exaggerated
patience. I began to feel in various pockets]

[Illustration: Can most travellers, I wonder, enjoy as I do a solitary
walk, by night, through the mysterious streets of a strange city?]

[Illustration: Coming out of my slumber with the curious and unpleasant
sense of being stared at, I found his eyes fixed upon me]

[Illustration: Mount Vernon Place is the centre of Baltimore. Everything
begins there, including Baedeker]

[Illustration: If she is shopping for a dinner party, she may order the
costly and aristocratic diamond-back terrapin, sacred in Baltimore as is
the Sacred Cod in Boston]

[Illustration: Doughoregan Manor--The house was of buff-colored brick.
It was low and very long, with wings extending from its central
structure like beautiful arms flung wide in welcome]

[Illustration: I began to realize that there was no one coming; that no
one had opened the door; that it had begun to swing immediately upon my
saying the word "ghosts"]

[Illustration: Harpers Ferry is an entrancing old town; a drowsy place
piled up beautifully yet carelessly upon terraced roads clinging to
steep hillsides]

[Illustration: "What's the matter with him?" I asked, stopping]

[Illustration: When I came down, dressed for riding, my companion was
making a drawing; the four young ladies were with him, none of them in
riding habits]

[Illustration: Claymont Court is one of the old Washington houses. But
in all its history it has never been a happier home or a more
interesting one than it is to-day]

[Illustration: Chatham, the old Fitzhugh house, now the residence of
Mark Sullivan. Washington, Madison, Monroe, Washington Irving, Lee and
Lincoln have known the shelter of its roof]

[Illustration: Monticello stands on a lofty hilltop, with vistas,
between trees of neighboring valleys, hills, and mountains]

[Illustration: Like Venice, the University of Virginia should first be
seen by moonlight]

[Illustration: One party was stationed on the top of an old-time
mail-coach bearing the significant initials "F.F.V."]

[Illustration: The Piedmont Hunt Race Meet--There i