NG AGO 467

XLIV THE GIRL HE LEFT BEHIND HIM 474

XLV VICKSBURG OLD AND NEW 482

XLVI SHREDS AND PATCHES 494

XLVII THE BAFFLING MISSISSIPPI 500

XLVIII OLD RIVER DAYS 508

XLIX WHAT MEMPHIS HAS ENDURED 518

L MODERN MEMPHIS 535

FARTHEST SOUTH

LI BEAUTIFUL SAVANNAH 553

LII MISS "JAX" AND SOME FLORIDA GOSSIP 572

LIII PASSIONATE PALM BEACH 579

LIV ASSORTED AND RESORTED FLORIDA 595

LV A DAY IN MONTGOMERY 603

LVI THE CITY OF THE CREOLE 619

LVII HISTORY, THE CREOLE, AND HIS DUELS 629

LVIII FROM ANTIQUES TO PIRATES 648

LIX ANTOINE'S AND MARDI GRAS 663

LX FINALE 675

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE
Charleston is the last stronghold of a unified American upper class;
the last remaining American city in which Madeira and Port and
_noblesse oblige_ are fully and widely understood, and are employed
according to the best traditions _Frontispiece_

"Railroad tickets!" said the baggageman with exaggerated patience 8

Can most travellers, I wonder, enjoy as I do a solitary walk, by
night, through the mysterious streets of a strange city? 17

Coming out of my slumber with the curious and unpleasant sense of
being stared at, I found his eyes fixed upon me 24

Mount Vernon Place is the centre of Baltimore 32

If she is shopping for a dinner party, she may order the costly and
aristocratic diamond-back terrapin, sacred in Baltimore as is the
Sacred Cod in Boston 48

Doughoregan Manor--the house was a buff-colored brick 65

I began to realize that