e had the gratification of seeing one falling, in the shape and
appearance of a torrent or cascade of foaming water, down the deep-worn
crevices of the steep or perpendicular granite mountains. Nothing can
be more awful than the sound of these cataracts of ice and snow thus
descending, unless it be the silence which succeeds. The elevations from
which we beheld these operations of Nature, and saw such an immense
range of primitive mountains stretching to the east and west, were
covered with rich pasturage and beautiful flowers, among which was
abundance of the monkshood, a flower which I had never seen but in the
trim borders of our gardens, and which here grew not so much in patches
as in little woods or forests, towering above the other plants. At this
season the herdsmen are with their cattle in still higher regions than
those which we have trod, the herbage where we travelled being reserved
till they descend in the autumn. We have visited the Abbey of Engelberg,
not many leagues from the borders of the Lake of Lucerne. The tradition
is, that the site of the abbey was appointed by angels, singing from a
lofty mountain that rises from the plain of the valley, and which, from
having been thus honoured, is called Engelberg, or the Hill of the
Angels. It is a glorious position for such beings, and I should have
thought myself repaid for the trouble of so long a journey by the
impression made upon my mind, when I first came in view of the vale in
which the convent is placed, and of the mountains that enclose it. The
light of the sun had left the valley, and the deep shadows spread over
it heightened the splendour of the evening light, and spread upon the
surrounding mountains, some of which had their summits covered with pure
snow; others were half hidden by vapours rolling round them; and the
Rock of Engelberg could not have been seen under more fortunate
circumstances, for masses of cloud glowing with the reflection of the
rays of the setting sun were hovering round it, like choirs of spirits
preparing to settle upon its venerable head.

To-day we quit this place to ascend the mountain Righi. We shall be
detained in this neighbourhood till our passports are returned from
Berne, signed by the Austrian minister, which we find absolutely
necessary to enable us to proceed into the _Milanese_. At the end of
five weeks at the latest, we hope to reach Geneva, returning by the
Simplon Pass. There I might have the pleasure of hea