ly be taken on foot, or on horseback, or in a cart.
We will conclude with
ULLSWATER,
as being, perhaps, upon the whole, the happiest combination of beauty
and grandeur, which any of the Lakes affords. It lies not more than ten
miles from Ambleside, and the Pass of Kirkstone and the descent from it
are very impressive; but, notwithstanding, this Vale, like the others,
loses much of its effect by being entered from the head: so that it is
better to go from Keswick through Matterdale, and descend upon Gowbarrow
Park; you are thus brought at once upon a magnificent view of the two
higher reaches of the Lake. Ara-force thunders down the Ghyll on the
left, at a small distance from the road. If Ullswater be approached from
Penrith, a mile and a half brings you to the winding vale of Eamont, and
the prospects increase in interest till you reach Patterdale; but the
first four miles along Ullswater by this road are comparatively tame;
and in order to see the lower part of the Lake to advantage, it is
necessary to go round by Pooley Bridge, and to ride at least three miles
along the Westmoreland side of the water, towards Martindale. The views,
especially if you ascend from the road into the fields, are magnificent;
yet this is only mentioned that the transient Visitant may know what
exists; for it would be inconvenient to go in search of them. They who
take this course of three or four miles _on foot_, should have a boat in
readiness at the end of the walk, to carry them across to the Cumberland
side of the Lake, near Old Church, thence to pursue the road upwards to
Patterdale. The Church-yard Yew-tree still survives at Old Church, but
there are no remains of a Place of Worship, a New Chapel having been
erected in a more central situation, which Chapel was consecrated by the
then Bishop of Carlisle, when on his way to crown Queen Elizabeth, he
being the only Prelate who would undertake the office. It may be here
mentioned that Bassenthwaite Chapel yet stands in a bay as sequestered
as the Site of Old Church; such situations having been chosen in
disturbed times to elude marauders.
The Trunk, or Body of the Vale of Ullswater need not be further noticed,
as its beauties show themselves: but the curious Traveller may wish to
know something of its tributary Streams.
At Dalemain, about three miles from Penrith, a Stream is crossed called
the Dacre, or Dacor, which name it bore as early as the time of the
Venerable Bede. This
|