in France, who had not bene twentie dayes in Italy, but he was as
farre gone on the contrary Byas, and since his returne is turned againe.
Now what should one say of such men but as the Philosopher saith of a
friend, 'Amicus omnium, Amicus nullorum,' A professor of both, a
believer in neither.[182]
"The next Caveat is, to beware how he heare anything repugnant to his
religion: for as I have tyed his tongue; so must I stop his eares, least
they be open to the smooth incantations of an insinuating seducer, or
the suttle arguments of a sophisticall adversarie. To this effect I must
precisely forbid him the fellowship or companie of one sort of people in
generall: these are the Jesuites, underminders and inveiglers of greene
wits, seducers of men in matter of faith, and subverters of men in
matters of State, making of both a bad christian, and worse subject.
These men I would have my Travueller never heare, except in the Pulpit;
for[183] being eloquent, they speake excellent language; and being wise,
and therefore best knowing how to speake to best purpose, they seldome
or never handle matter of controversie."
Our best authority in this period of travelling is Fynes Moryson, whose
_Precepts for Travellers_[184] are particularly full. Moryson is well
known as one of the most experienced travellers of the late Elizabethan
era. On a travelling Fellowship from Peterhouse College, Cambridge, in
1591-1595 he made a tour of Europe, when the Continent was bristling
with dangers for Englishmen. Spain and the Inquisition infected Italy
and the Low Countries; France was full of desperate marauding soldiers;
Germany nourished robbers and free-booters in every forest. It was the
particular delight of Fynes Moryson to run into all these dangers and
then devise means of escaping them. He never swerved from seeing
whatever his curiosity prompted him to, no matter how forbidden and
perilous was the venture. Disguised as a German he successfully viewed
the inside of a Spanish fort;[185] in the character of a Frenchman he
entered the jaws of the Jesuit College at Rome.[186] He made his way
through German robbers by dressing as a poor Bohemian, without cloak or
sword, with his hands in his hose, and his countenance servile.[187] His
triumphs were due not so much to a dashing and magnificent bravery, as
to a nice ingenuity. For instance, when he was plucked bare by the
French soldiers of even his inner doublet, in which he had quilted his
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