assuming the privilege of
travellers in general, that I am very sensible of the sulphureous
vapour produced by the volcano: at the same time, it may be necessary
to observe, that the wind blows directly towards the ship. Strombolo
is a remarkably high island, of a regular conical form, and may be
seen at the distance of twenty leagues. It is about ten miles in
circumference, and, I understand, is inhabited by a few fishermen.
Unluckily, the weather is too hazy to admit our seeing much of the
beautiful coast of Calabria, which is at no great distance from us.

"Wednesday, 20th.--We have now a pleasant breeze, which will soon waft
us through the Straits of Messina, so famous for being the terror of
the ancients. An old pilot is just come on board, who reminds me more
of the poet's description of old Charon than of a modern human being.
I hope he is not come to ferry us across the Styx. The whole of his
crew have the same grotesque appearance. We can now discern the famous
AEtna disgorging columns of smoke. Some distance below its summit it
appears covered with snow, whilst we are here melting with heat. It
has indeed a most stately appearance; and the whole country of Sicily
answers everything that has been reported of it for its fertility, as
well as for the varied beauty of its scene: but I must recommend you
to read Brydone's travels through Sicily and Malta, a writer who, I
recollect, gives a lively description of these different places.

"We have this day been regaled with a most enchanting prospect in
passing through the Faro of Messina. It is not more than three miles
distant, and on each side lies the most picturesque and lovely country
that can be described. The ship was within a mile of the beautiful
city of Messina, where I distinctly observed some of the ruins
occasioned by the earthquake in the year 1783.

"From what I have been able to learn from old Charon (who has just
left us in perfect safety), the French fleet are still off Malta; and
it appears their formidable armament is directed against that island.
As it is a place of great strength, and as we are within two days'
sail of it, with a favourable wind, I hope we shall be in time for its
relief, and add still more important exploits to many that have
formerly been achieved in fighting for its defence.

"Thursday, 21st.--The wind has proved rather contrary for the squadron
since yesterday. We are still in sight of Mount AEtna, and only a few
leagues