gnorance, the tremendous power of the surf into
which he sprang, and daring to recklessness in the conscious possession
of unusual strength and courage, he did not pause to look or consider,
but at once struck out to sea. He was soon beyond the influence of the
breaking waves, and for some time sported in the full enjoyment of the
briny Atlantic waters. Then turning towards the shore he swam in and
was speedily tossing among the breakers. As he neared the sandy beach
and felt the full power of the water on his partially exhausted frame,
he experienced a slight feeling of anxiety, for the thunder of each wave
as it fell and rushed up before him in seething foam, seemed to indicate
a degree of force which he had not realised in his first vigorous plunge
into the sea. A moment more and a wave caught him in its curling crest,
and swept him onwards. For the first time in his life, Oliver
Trembath's massive strength was of no avail to him. He felt like a
helpless infant. In another instant the breaker fell and swept him with
irresistible violence up the beach amid a turmoil of hissing foam. No
sooner did he touch the ground than he sprang to his feet, and staggered
forward a few paces but the returning rush of water swept sand and
stones from beneath his feet, carried his legs from under him, and
hurled him back into the hollow of the succeeding wave, which again
rolled him on the sand.

Although somewhat stunned, Oliver did not lose consciousness or
self-possession. He now fully realised the extreme danger of his
position, and the thought flashed through his brain that, at the
farthest, his fate must be decided in two or three minutes. Acting on a
brave spirit, this thought nerved him to desperate effort. The instant
he could plant his feet firmly he bounded forwards, and then, before the
backward rush of water had gathered strength, fell on his knees, and dug
his fingers and toes deep into the sand. Had the grasp been on
something firm he could easily have held on, but the treacherous sand
crumbled out of his grasp, and a second time he was carried back into
the sea.

The next time he was cast on the beach he felt that his strength was
failing; he staggered forward as soon as he touched bottom, with all the
energy of one who avails himself of his last chance, but the angry water
was too strong for him. Feeling that he was being overpowered, he cast
his arms up in the air, and gave utterance to a loud cry. It