the scene is both
inspiriting and brilliant. Above the roll of the machinery and noise of
the dashing waters comes the grateful melody of happy voices, lulling
the tired traveller to repose and chasing away from other faces all
recollection of painful responsibilities and cares.

A sail on this upper river is a beautiful one, and all who can should
make it. The scenery is not as varied or striking as is that of the
Hudson, of which one is constantly reminded; but it is nevertheless
attractive and quite peculiar. The banks of the Lower Mississippi have
risen here to high towering bluffs, giving a highly picturesque
character to the landscape. This is the region of the lower magnesian
limestone; and as it builds up these bluffs and crops out along their
sides and at the tops, worn by the winds and rains of centuries--these
rock exposures, gray and moss covered, have rounded into striking
resemblances of old ruins, as if buried by convulsions in some unknown
age, the homes of some possible race of Montezumas, of which these are
the only monuments and records.

They often rise to the height of four and sometimes five hundred feet
above the river, standing singly or in groups, and again stretch for
long distances like the Palisades of the Hudson, differing from them in
that they are not as abrupt and have their sides covered with the most
luxuriant sward.

Those who can should climb to the summit of one of these cliffs and get
a glimpse of as lovely a picture as it is possible to find in a journey
round the world. The winding river, dotted all over with islands and
fringed along its shores with forest-trees, expanding now into some
miniature lake, then lost and broken by some intervening bluff, to the
right or left of which stretches the distant prairie; the whole forming
a panoramic view unrivalled in interest and beauty by any we have ever
seen elsewhere.

It is impossible for us adequately to describe to the reader these
varying scenes of beauty in the landscapes which present themselves as
we sail. They should come and see for themselves, and bask in the pure,
bracing atmosphere, and the genial sunshine of these bluest of blue
skies.

CHAPTER III.

RIVER TOWNS.

Brownsville, the first town.--The city of La Crosse.--Victoria and
Albert Bluffs.--Trempeleau and Mountain Island.--The city of
Winona.--Its name and origin.--The Winona and St. Peters Railroad.--The
Air-Line Railroad.--Her educational interests.