ay that stream runs. Charmian
suggests "both ways." I refuse such a compromise. No stream of water I
ever saw could accomplish that feat at one and the same time. The
greatest concession I can make is that sometimes it may run one way and
sometimes the other, and that in the meantime we should both consult an
oculist.

More valley from Ukiah to Willits, and then we turned westward through
the virgin Sherwood Forest of magnificent redwood, stopping at Alpine for
the night and continuing on through Mendocino County to Fort Bragg and
"salt water." We also came to Fort Bragg up the coast from Fort Ross,
keeping our coast journey intact from the Golden Gate. The coast weather
was cool and delightful, the coast driving superb. Especially in the
Fort Ross section did we find the roads thrilling, while all the way
along we followed the sea. At every stream, the road skirted dizzy cliff-
edges, dived down into lush growths of forest and ferns and climbed out
along the cliff-edges again. The way was lined with flowers--wild lilac,
wild roses, poppies, and lupins. Such lupins!--giant clumps of them, of
every lupin-shade and--colour. And it was along the Mendocino roads that
Charmian caused many delays by insisting on getting out to pick the wild
blackberries, strawberries, and thimble-berries which grew so profusely.
And ever we caught peeps, far down, of steam schooners loading lumber in
the rocky coves; ever we skirted the cliffs, day after day, crossing
stretches of rolling farm lands and passing through thriving villages and
saw-mill towns. Memorable was our launch-trip from Mendocino City up Big
River, where the steering gears of the launches work the reverse of
anywhere else in the world; where we saw a stream of logs, of six to
twelve and fifteen feet in diameter, which filled the river bed for miles
to the obliteration of any sign of water; and where we were told of a
white or albino redwood tree. We did not see this last, so cannot vouch
for it.

All the streams were filled with trout, and more than once we saw the
side-hill salmon on the slopes. No, side-hill salmon is not a
peripatetic fish; it is a deer out of season. But the trout! At Gualala
Charmian caught her first one. Once before in my life I had caught two
. . . on angleworms. On occasion I had tried fly and spinner and never got
a strike, and I had come to believe that all this talk of fly-fishing was
just so much nature-faking. But on the G