of the lakes with them,
between Keswick and Ambleside, after I leave Howick.

The weather is, I believe, generally favorable for that scenery as late
as November. I have never seen the English lakes, and am not likely soon
to have so pleasant an opportunity of doing so.

I have received an application from the York manager to act at Leeds,
and having agreed to do so, think I shall probably also act a few nights
at York, Hull, and Sheffield, while I am thereabouts; all which,
together with my visit to the Ellesmeres, will take up so much of my
time that I doubt my being more than a month or three weeks in Orchard
Street before my term of possession there expires.... I shall be able to
answer your questions about the Combes better when I am with them, but
besides my own observation I have the testimony of the ----s to the fact
of their having become much more aggressive in their feeling and
conversation with regard to "Church abuses," "theological bigotry," and
even Christianity itself. I am sorry to hear this; but if they _hurt_
me, I shall heal myself by looking at the Vatican [a fine engraving of
St. Peter's, in Mr. Combe's house].

I had a letter from E---- the other day. I am delighted to say that they
have quite determined to return in the spring, and it is just possible
that I may see them before I leave England.

E----'s account of the Roman reforms is most encouraging, and I must
give you an extract from his letter about them.

"A very important decree was published on the 2d of this month, relative
to the organization of a municipal council and magistracy for the city
of Rome. Besides the ordinary duties of a municipality, such as public
works, _octroi_, etc., it is to have the direction of education. This is
a circumstance the consequence of which it is impossible to overrate or
to foresee. Hitherto, education has been monopolized by the clergy, and
moreover by the Jesuits (whose schools have always been the best by a
very great deal, to give the devil his due). The new law does not
abolish their establishments, or interfere with them in any way, but the
liberal feeling being so strong in the country, the rising generation
will be almost entirely educated in the schools founded by the
municipality; it is the greatest blow the hierarchy has yet received.
The council consists of a hundred members, chosen from different classes
of society. It is first named by the Pope, and then renews itself by
elections; t