he ruins of
thousands of the habitations of prehistoric man. The climate in these
rugged regions ranges from the heat of the fierce tropical sun to the
bitter cold of the mountain summits. Abundant _bosques_ or forests of
oak cover the higher regions, and the wild and broken nature of the
country renders it difficult to traverse, and calls for the adventurous
spirit of the pioneer and explorer, without which the traveller will
but meet with discomfort and danger.

Yet the true traveller finds pleasure in these matters. The impressive
grandeur of the mountain landscape, the endless forests, the profound
ravines do but serve to divert his mind from the peril and discomfort
of the trail. Here he may revel in Nature's untamed handiwork of
mountain, forest, and flood, as day after day he journeys onward in the
saddle towards the Pacific Ocean. Here are the imposing _barrancas_ of
Jalisco which he traverses, and marks how they are buried in the
profuse vegetation which presses up to the very border of the lava of
smoking Ceboruco. Thence the myrtle forests of Tepic are penetrated. On
the tropic lakes thousands of log-like alligators lie, gloomily
awaiting their prey. From the verge, which rich forests fringe, and
where brilliant water-weeds encircle the shoals, dainty pink and white
herons rise, and below the blue surface gleams the sheen of myriad
fish. Far to the southwards the fitful volcanic flames of Colima light
up the landscape at night. A day's journey more across the coastal
plains, and our reconnaissance is finished. The long-drawn surf beats
upon the shore of the vast western ocean, for we have crossed the
continent; and the sun's glowing disc dips to the blood-red
waves--sunset in the Pacific.

[Illustration: TYPICAL VILLAGE OF THE PACIFIC COAST ZONE: STATE OF
COLIMA.]

CHAPTER II
THE DAWN OF MEXICO: TOLTECS AND AZTECS

Lake Texcoco--Valley of Anahuac--Seat of the Aztec civilisation--
Snow-capped peaks--Pyramids of Teotihuacan--Toltecs--The first
Aztecs--The eagle, cactus, and serpent--Aztec oracle and wanderings--
Tenochtitlan--Prehistoric American civilisations--Maya, Incas--Quito
and Peru--The dawn of history--The Toltec empire--Rise, _regime_,
fall--Quetzalcoatl--Otomies--Chichemecas--Nezahualcoyotl--Astlan--The
seven tribes and their wanderings--Mexican war-god--The Teocallis--
Human sacrifices--Prehistoric City of Mexico--The Causeways--Aztec
arts, kings, and civilisation--Montezuma--Guatemoc--Im