er, as now for some
people, the crowning event of a visit to Rome was to receive the Papal
blessing. This Evelyn desired and obtained, although the event is not
recorded in his diary with any great enthusiasm. 'May, 4th. Having seen
the entrie of ye ambassador of Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by
favour of our Cardinal Protector, Frair Barberini, I was admitted into
the consistorie, heard the ambassador make his ovation in Latine to the
Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, and changing two
pontifical miters; after which I was presented to kisse his toe, that
is, his embroder'd slipper, two Cardinals holding up his vest and
surplice, and then being sufficiently bless'd with his thumb and two
fingers for that day, I return'd home to dinner.'

He quitted Rome about the middle of May after a sojourn there of seven
months, which had occasioned him so small an outlay that he remarked
thereon in his Diary. 'The bills of exchange I took up from my first
entering Italy till I went from Rome amounted but to 616 _ducanti di
banco_, though I purchas'd many books, pictures, and curiosities.' Going
northwards by Sienna, Leghorn, Lucca, Florence, Bologna, and Ferrara, he
reached Venice early in June. Arriving 'extreamly weary and beaten' with
the journey, he went and enjoyed the new luxury of a Turkish bath. 'This
bath did so open my pores that it cost me one of the greatest colds I
ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution in keeping myselfe
warme for some time after; for coming out, I immediately began to visit
the famous places of the city; and travellers who come in to Italy do
nothing but run up and down to see sights.'

Evelyn had the good fortune to see Venice _en fete_, and in those days
that must have been a sight well worth seeing. He saw the Doge espouse
the Adriatic by casting a gold ring into it on Ascension day with very
great pomp and ceremony. 'It was now Ascension Weeke, and the greate
mart or faire of ye whole yeare was kept, every body at liberty and
jollie. The noblemen stalking with their ladys on _choppines_; these are
high-heel'd shoes, particularly affected by these proude dames, or, as
some say, invented to keepe them at home, it being very difficult to
walke with them; whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames,
replied, they were _mezzo carne, mezzo ligno_, half flesh, half wood,
and he would have none of them. The truth is, their garb is very odd, as
seeming always in ma