o push on.

Another difficulty, however, here presented itself. The Tchouch of
Zaptiehs positively declined to give me a guide; and it was only by
sending for the Mudir, and threatening to write a complaint to the
Serdar Ekrem, that I succeeded in obtaining one. This escort duty is the
principal work of the mounted Zaptiehs. Ten piastres a day, or twenty
pence, is what is usually paid them by those who make use of their
services. They, of course, pay for the keep of their own horses out of
their regular official salary. The rain now gave place to snow, which
fell in considerable quantities for two or three days. The cold was
intense, and it was only by halting at every khan, generally about three
hours apart, that it was possible to keep the blood in circulation. On
the morning of the 20th the sun shone out bright and comparatively warm,
although everything bore a most wintry aspect. Beautiful as the scenery
must be when spring has clothed the trees with green, or when the early
autumnal tints have succeeded the fierce heat of summer, the appearance
of the country clad in its snowy garments might well compare with either
of these. The hills, rugged in parts, and opening out at intervals into
large open plains, trees and shrubs groaning with their milk-white
burden, or sparkling like frosted silver in the moonlight, and above all
the river, now yellow and swollen, rushing rapidly along, produced an
effect characteristic and grand.

About ninety miles from Serayevo the river becomes much broader, and
swollen as it was by the recent rain and snow, presented a very fine
appearance.

On its right bank stands the town of Maglai, which is prettily situated
in the side of a basin formed by the hills, a craggy eminence apparently
dividing the town into two parts. Behind these, however, the houses
meet, sloping down close to the river's edge. On the very summit of the
central mound is an old fort mounting five guns, which command the
river, but would otherwise be of little use. The only means of
communication between either bank, is a ferry-boat of rude construction.
After leaving this town there still remained four hours of my journey
to be accomplished, before arriving at Schevaleekhan, where I intended
passing the night. Unaccustomed as I was to anything like luxury, I was
positively staggered at the total absence of even the commonest
necessaries of life. At Maglai I had endeavoured without success to buy
potatoes, fruit,