e most elegant court in the world." And as Louis had responded with
a cordial invitation to Versailles, at the end of May he, with his grand
duchess, a princess of Wuertemberg, arrived at the palace.

Paul had not as yet given any indications of the brutal and ferocious
disposition which distinguished him in his later years, till it gradually
developed into a savage insanity which neither his nobles nor even his
sons could endure. He appeared rather a young man of frank and open
temper, somewhat more unguarded in his language, especially concerning his
own affairs and position, than was quite prudent or becoming; but kind in
intention, sometimes even courteous in manner, shrewd in discerning what
things and what persons were most worthy of his notice, and showing no
deficiency of judgment in the observations which he made upon them. The
grand duchess, however, was generally regarded as greatly superior to her
husband in every respect. He was almost repulsive in his ugliness. She was
extremely handsome in feature, though disfigured by a stoutness
extraordinary in one so young. She had also a high reputation for
accomplishments and general ability, though that too was disguised by a
coldness or ungraciousness of manner that gave strangers a disagreeable
impression of her; which, however, a more intimate acquaintance greatly
removed.

Their characters had preceded them, and Marie Antoinette, for perhaps the
first time in her life, felt very uneasy as to her own power of receiving
them with the dignity which became both her and them. As she afterward
explained her feelings to Madame de Campan, "she found the part of a
queen much move difficult to play in the presence of other sovereigns, or
of princes who were born to become sovereigns, than before ordinary
courtiers.[7]" She even fortified her courage before dinner with a glass
of water, and the medicine proved effectual. Even if it cost her an effort
to preserve her habitual gayety, her difficulty was unperceived, and
indeed, after the few first moments, ceased to be a difficulty. Paul
himself cared but little for female attractions or graces; but the
archduchess was charmed with her union of liveliness and dignity, which
surpassed all her previous experiences of courts; and one of her ladies,
Madame d'Oberkirch, who has left behind her some memoirs, to which all
succeeding writers have been indebted for many particulars of this visit,
could scarcely find words to describ