nside, and they are generally
the large leaves of the _vihai_, a species of _heliconia_, which grows
abundantly in the tropical forests of South America. Leaves of the
_musacaae_ (_plantains_ and _bananas_) serve for a similar purpose; and
both kinds are equally employed in thatching the huts in which the
natives dwell.

The little cabin thus constructed is called a _toldo_. Inside it is
high enough for a man to sit upright, though not to stand; and generally
it is only used for sleeping in, or as a shelter during rain. At other
times the traveller prefers the open air; and sits or reclines upon the
roof of the toldo, which is constructed of sufficient strength to bear
his weight. The forward part of the periagua is left quite open; and
here the rowers take their stations, so that their movements do not
interfere with the comfort of the travellers.

Through the influence of the Portuguese trader, our party had the good
fortune to obtain a proper periagua and crew. They were Christianised
Indians, belonging to one of the Spanish missions situated far up the
Napo. They had descended this river with a cargo of the products of the
mission; and were just about starting to go back, as our travellers
arrived at the river's mouth. An agreement was easily entered into with
the _capataz_, or chief of the periagua; and as our travellers always
paid liberally for such service, and kept the crew well fed, they
received as good attendance and accommodation as circumstances would
admit of. Here and there on the banks of the river--though at very long
intervals apart--were settlements of the wild Indians of the forest; and
as nearly all the tribes of Amazonia do less or more in the way of
cultivation and commerce, our travellers were enabled from time to time
to replenish their larder. Their guns, too, helped materially to keep
up the supply: since almost every day game of one kind or another was
procured along the banks. For bread they had _farinha_, a good stock of
which they had brought with them on the steamer from Paru. This is the
grated root of the manioc plant (_jatropha manihot_), and forms the
staple food of all classes throughout the countries of Amazonia.

Alexis was particularly interested in what they saw. Never had
naturalist a finer field for observation. Here was nature presented to
the eye in its most normal condition. Here could be observed the
tropical forest in all its primeval virginity, unbroken b