l--with the pig-tail
coiled into a chignon. The pure natives and many half-breeds wore
the shirt outside the trousers. It was usually white, with a long
stiff front, and cut European fashion; but often it was made of
an extremely fine yellow-tinted expensive material, called _pina_
(_vide_ p. 283). Some few of the native _jeunesse doree_ of Manila
donned the European dress, much to their apparent discomfort. The
official attire of the headman of a Manila ward and his subordinates
was a shirt with the tail outside the trousers, like other natives
or half-breeds, but over which was worn the official distinction of
a short Eton jacket, reaching to the hips. All this is now changing,
with a tendency to imitate the Americans.

A native woman wore, as she does now, a flowing skirt of gay
colours--bright red, green, and white being the common choice. The
length of train, and whether the garment be of cotton, silk, or
satin, depends on her means. Corsets are not yet the fashion, but a
chemisette, which just covers her breast, and a starched neckcloth
(_panuelo_) of _pina_ or _husi_ stuff are in common use. The _panuelo_
is square, and, being folded triangularly, it hangs in a point down the
back and stands very high up at the neck, in the 17th century style,
whilst the other two points are brooched where they meet at the top of
the chemisette _decolletee_. To this chemisette are added immensely
wide short sleeves. Her hair is brushed back from the forehead,
without a parting, and coiled into a tight, flat chignon. In her
hand she carries a fan, without which she would feel lost. Native
women have an extravagant desire to possess jewellery--even if they
never wear it. The head is covered with a white mantle of very thin
material, sometimes figured, but more often this and the neckcloth
are embroidered--a work in which they excel. Finally, her naked
feet are partly enveloped in _chinelas_--a kind of slipper, flat,
like a shoe-sole with no heel, but just enough upper in front to put
four toes inside. Altogether, the appearance of a Philippine woman of
well-to-do family dressed on a gala day is curious, sometimes pretty,
but, in any case, admirably suited to the climate.

Since 1898 American example, the great demand for _pina_ muslin, at
any price, by American ladies, and the scarcity of this texture, due
to the plants having been abandoned during the wars, have necessarily
brought about certain modifications in female attire.