good, and, if the
line of road was well bridged throughout, the country conveyances could
always make their way along it with perfect ease. If the money now spent
in macadamizing were spent in making the necessary bridges, the resources
of the country would be much more fully opened out than they are at
present; a garre-waller, or cart-man, can always appreciate a bridge,
never a macadamized road. At present the bridges on this road are all
wooden, and liable to be carried away by the first heavy flood.
The whole way to the frontier of Nepaul we travelled along a
cutcher-road, accompanied by a train of at least a hundred hackerys,
without the slightest inconvenience; and until the style of cart at
present used by the natives becomes wonderfully improved, this road may
well be used, except of course during the rains.
A few days' march brought us to the banks of the Gograh, a large river
rising in the western Terai, and measuring, at the point where we
crossed, at least half a mile in breadth. As we came upon the cliff
overlooking the river, the scene was novel and amusing. As 5000 persons
had to reach the opposite bank, and no preparations had been made for
their transit, the confusion may be easily imagined. The good-humour of
the hillmen, however, was imperturbable, and, though there was plenty of
loud talking, the remarks made were usually of a facetious nature.
The stream was rapid, and carried the boats down some distance. Ten
elephants, with nothing visible but the tips of their trunks and the
crowns of their heads, on which latter squatted the mahouts, made the
passage gallantly. On the opposite side we passed through a village, the
little square of which was absolutely filled with monkeys. They resort
thither by hundreds from the neighbouring jungles to be fed by the
villagers, and are most independent in their behaviour, unscrupulously
attacking the man who brings their daily allowance, and, as they are
accounted sacred, they are of course unmolested. We saw some serious
fights amongst them, young and old mixing indiscriminately in the melee;
a mother was frequently seen making a rapid but orderly retreat with her
young one on her back.
We occasionally passed picturesque villages, the inhabitants of which
were of course all attracted by so novel a spectacle. The system pursued
by the villagers here is the same as may be observed in many parts of the
Continent of Europe: they invariably congrega
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