sed in a casing not unlike that of the
hazel-nut, but thinner and full of oil. Charley thought they looked
like little laurel bushes; to me, those that had been well picked were
not unlike huckleberry bushes, only the leaves were, of course, a much
darker green. The first picking, usually in April, is when the leaves
are very young and tender, commanding a much higher price than those
subsequently plucked. The second is a month later, when they have
attained maturity; and as unpropitious weather would be likely to ruin
them, great expedition is used in getting in the crop, the entire
population turning out to assist. A third, and even a fourth, follows;
but the quality rapidly deteriorates, and but a small proportion of
these last pickings is prepared for export.

[Illustration: DRYING THE TEA.]

The plantations were filled with a merry crowd, composed principally of
women and children, all engaged in stripping the bushes as rapidly as
possible, yet with great care and dexterity, so as not to bruise the
leaves. They looked up from their work and screamed to each other in
their harsh guttural tones, casting glances of astonishment at the
barbarians. Following some of the coolies, who with filled bags were
trudging off to the curing-house, we saw the most interesting operation
of all. Here, at least thirty young girls were engaged in assorting the
leaves, picking out all the dead and yellow ones, and preparing them
for the hands of the rollers and firers. Our entrance excited quite a
commotion among the damsels, as we were probably the first barbarians
they had seen, and we had the reputation of living entirely on fat
babies. A word from Akong, who had joined us, reassured them, and in a
few minutes Charley was airing his little stock of Chinese, more, I
thought, to their amusement than their edification. Leaving this room
we went into another where the curing was in progress. On one side
extended a long furnace built of bricks, with large iron pans placed at
equal distances, and heated by charcoal fires below. Into these pans
leaves by the basketful were poured, stirred rapidly for a few minutes,
and then removed to large bamboo frames, where they were rolled and
kneaded until all the green juice was freed. They were then scattered
loosely in large, flat baskets, and placed in the sun to dry.
Subsequently, the leaves were again carried to the furnaces and exposed
to a gentle heat, until they curled and twisted themselve