in herds of _several
hundreds_." In a later chapter Polo speaks of a wild sheep apparently
different and greater. (See _J. A. S. B._, X. 858 seqq.)

NOTE 7.--This pleasant passage is only in Ramusio, but it would be heresy
to doubt its genuine character. Marco's recollection of the delight of
convalescence in such a climate seems to lend an unusual enthusiasm and
felicity to his description of the scenery. Such a region as he speaks of
is probably the cool Plateau of Shewa, of which we are told as extending
about 25 miles eastward from near Faizabad, and forming one of the finest
pastures in Badakhshan. It contains a large lake called by the frequent
name Sar-i-Kol. No European traveller in modern times (unless Mr. Gardner)
has been on those glorious table-lands. Burnes says that at Kunduz both
natives and foreigners spoke rapturously of the vales of Badakhshan, its
rivulets, romantic scenes and glens, its fruits, flowers, and
nightingales. Wood is reticent on scenery, naturally, since nearly all his
journey was made in winter. When approaching Faizabad on his return from
the Upper Oxus, however, he says: "On entering the beautiful lawn at the
gorge of its valley I was enchanted at the quiet loveliness of the scene.
Up to this time, from the day we left Talikan, we had been moving in snow;
but now it had nearly vanished from the valley, and the fine sward was
enamelled with crocuses, daffodils, and snowdrops." (_P. Manphul; Burnes_,
III. 176; _Wood_, 252.)

NOTE 8.--Yet scarcely any country in the world has suffered so terribly
and repeatedly from invasion. "Enduring decay probably commenced with the
wars of Chinghiz, for many an instance in Eastern history shows the
permanent effect of such devastations.... Century after century saw only
progress in decay. Even to our own time the progress of depopulation and
deterioration has continued." In 1759, two of the Khojas of Kashgar,
escaping from the dominant Chinese, took refuge in Badakhshan; one died of
his wounds, the other was treacherously slain by Sultan Shah, who then
ruled the country. The holy man is said in his dying moments to have
invoked curses on Badakhshan, and prayed that it might be three times
depopulated; a malediction which found ample accomplishment. The misery of
the country came to a climax about 1830, when the Uzbek chief of Kunduz,
Murad Beg Kataghan, swept away the bulk of the inhabitants, and set them
down to die in the marshy plains of Kunduz. (