h, he must of course have clothes for
a campaign. He will not need arms, for I have kept for him his father's
sword and pistols. See that the tailors undertake to get his clothes
ready quickly, for he is to accompany Turenne to Italy in four or five
days. One suit at least must be finished in two days, for on the third
he is to wait upon Turenne, who is staying at the hotel of the Duc de
Bouillon, and he may possibly be presented to the cardinal."

The dress of a French gentleman in the reign of Louis XIII differed but
slightly from that worn at the same time by the cavaliers of Charles
I. It consisted of a loose cloak of cloth, silk, satin, or velvet,
according to the occasion and the wealth of the wearer. It generally
hung loosely on the shoulders, but two or three of the top buttons were
sometimes fastened; the sleeves were loose and open from the elbow.
Sometimes the cloak was richly embroidered. Over it fell a collar of
rich lace, with Vandyke border. Beneath it was worn a short tightly
fitted doublet embroidered in front, with puffed sleeves, and with a
belt or sash round the waist. The breeches were very full, reaching to
the knee. For walking or riding, loose high boots turned down at the top
and trimmed with lace or frillings joined the breeches; while in court
dress, silk stockings and shoes with rosettes were worn. The swords hung
from a richly embroidered baldrick going over the right shoulder.

Officers of the different regiments were distinguished by the colour of
their sashes, which was the only point of regimental uniformity. When on
a campaign doublets were usually worn of thick buff leather; armour was
still used, but was far less cumbrous than it had been, consisting
for the most part solely of shoulder pieces and cuirass, with plates
covering the upper part of the arm, thick buff leather gauntlets being
considered sufficient protection below the elbow. Four suits were
ordered for Hector: one for court, another for general use when in Paris
or other large towns, the third for travelling and when in attendance
with the general, the fourth for actual service in the field.

Almost as expensive as the suits were the shirts, with their deep lace
collars and ruffle; while for service in the field half a dozen plain
shirts were purchased. The headdress on ordinary occasions was a broad
beaver hat with plumes, and in the field a close fitting helmet with
cheek pieces. Visors had been almost entirely given up