ne beyond his destination. We paid
very little heed to him; but, leaping from the cart, felt grateful for
the blessing of whole bones. There remained still one zwanziger unpaid;
but, to our astonishment, the Bohemian relapsed into his old rage when
this was tendered to him, and, by a complication of finger reckoning,
explained to us that he had never received more than two. In fact, he
ignored all that had passed during his drunken fit. Argument being on
each side useless, we also betook ourselves to abuse, and a terrible
conflict of strong language, in which neither party understood the other,
was the result. We entered the chief inn of the village, followed by the
implacable Bohemian, who, though ejected several times, never failed to
re-appear, repeating his finger calculations every time, and concluding
each assault with the mystical words, "_Sacramentum hallaluyah_!" The
landlord came at length to our assistance; and, by a few emphatic words
in his own language, exorcised this evil spirit.

We pursued our way by Hohenmauth, and having missed somehow the larger
village of Chradim, lodged for the night in a lonely hamlet. We walked
fully thirty-two miles the next day, through a wild, neglected country,
and hobbled into Loitomischl as the night was setting in.

We were now upon the borders of Bohemia, and saw glaring on the wall of a
frontier hostelry, "Willkommen zu Mahren"--"Welcome to Moravia." We
sealed the welcome by a sumptuous breakfast of sausages and beer in the
frontier town of Zwittau--a pleasant place, with a spacious colonnaded
market-square--and finished our meal on a green bank on the outskirts of
the town, with a heap of sweet blackberries, of which we had purchased a
capful for six kreutzers shein. It was a quiet, beautiful Sunday
morning, and the country folks were streaming towards the church. They
were all in holiday trim, with a strong tendency to Orientalism in the
fashion of their garments. The women's head-dresses were arranged with
much taste, consisting generally of a large handkerchief, or shawl,
folded turban-wise, with hanging ends; but the heads of the men were
surmounted by an atrocious machine, in the shape of a hat, which, with
its broad, rolled brim, its expanded top, and numerous braidings and
pendants, could be nothing less than an heirloom in a family. We marched
some twenty-five miles that day, and as the even darkened, entered the
village of Goldentraum--Golden dream-