cut practically round and the
form is that of two truncated cones placed base to base. The upper cone
is truncated more than the lower, thus forming the large, flat top facet
known as the _table_ of the stone [A, Fig. 13, cut (a)]. The truncating
of the lower cone forms the tiny facet known as the culet, which lies
opposite to the table and is parallel to the latter [see B, Fig. 13, cut
(a)]. The edge of meeting of the two cones is the _girdle_ of the
brilliant [CD in cut (a), Fig. 13]. The sloping surface of the upper
cone is facetted with thirty-two facets in the full cut brilliant, while
the lower cone receives twenty-four.

Small stones sometimes receive fewer facets, to lessen the cost and
difficulty of cutting, but by paying sufficient for them full cut
brilliants as small as one hundred to the carat may be had. Cut (b) of
Fig. 13 shows the proper arrangement of the top facets and cut (c) that
of the bottom facets.

When cutting colored stones in the brilliant cut, especially if the
material is very costly and its color in need of being darkened or
lightened, the lapidary frequently takes liberties with the regular
arrangement and proportions depicted in the cuts.

STEP CUTTING. The only remaining type of cutting that is in very general
use is the _step cut_ (sometimes known as trap cut). Fig. 14, (a), (b),
and (c), shows the front elevation, the top and the back of a square
antique step cut stone. The contour may be round or completely square or
oblong or of some other shape, just as a brilliant may have any of these
contours. The distinctive feature of the step cutting is the several
series of parallel-edged quadrangular facets above and below the girdle
and the generally rounding character of its cross section. This plump,
rounding character permits the saving of weight of the rough material,
and by massing the color gives usually a greater depth of color than a
brilliant of the same spread would have if cut from similar material.
While probably never quite as snappy and brilliant as the regular
brilliant cut, a well-proportioned step cut stone can be very brilliant.
Many fine diamonds have recently been cut in steps for use in exclusive
jewelry.

THE MIXED CUT. The ruby and the emerald are never better in color than
when in the full step cut, although rubies are frequently cut in what is
known as the _mixed_ cut, consisting of a brilliant cut top and a step
cut back. Sapphires and many other colored stone