the last bell was sounding before the boat put off from
the quay. I then had my baggage checked on to Niagara, a custom-house
officer on board marking all the pieces intended only to pass through
Canada, thereby avoiding examination. All the arrangements of the
American railways with respect to luggage seem to me excellent, and
calculated greatly to promote the convenience of the travelling
public.

We were not more than a quarter of an hour on board the ferry-boat,
during which I found time to lay in a good supper in the splendid
saloon occupying the upper story of the vessel. Arrived at the
Canadian side, there was a general rush to the train; and the
carriages were soon filled. There were great complaints amongst some
of the passengers that the Pullman's cars were all full, and that no
beds were to be had; there being usually a considerable run upon these
convenient berths, especially in the depth of winter.

My next neighbour during the night was a very pleasant gentleman--an
American. I must here confess to the agreeable disappointment I have
experienced with respect to the Americans I have hitherto come in
contact with. I have as yet met with no specimens of the typical
Yankee depicted by satirists and novelists. In my innocence I expected
to be asked in the cars such questions as "I guess you're a Britisher,
Sir?" "Where do you come from, Stranger?" "Where are you going to,
Sir?" "What are you going to do when you get there?" and such like. It
is true that at San Francisco I encountered a few of such questions,
but the persons who put them were for the most part only hotel
touters. Among the Americans of about my own condition with whom I
travelled, I met with nothing but politeness and civility. I will go
further, and say that the generality of Americans are more ready to
volunteer a kindness than is usual in England. They are always ready
to answer a question, to offer a paper, to share a rug, or perhaps
tender a cigar. They are generally easy in manner, yet unobtrusive. I
will also add, that so far as my experience goes, the average
intelligence of young men in America is considerably higher than it is
in England. They are better educated and better informed; and I met
few or none who were not able to enter into any topic of general
conversation, and pursue it pleasantly.

I saw but little of Canada, for I passed through what is called the
"London district" of it in the night. It was about four in the morni