in.
4 pieces asbestos, 2 by 8-1/2 in.
1 sheet of brass, 13 by 13 in., 17 gauge.
2 hinges, 1 elbow catch, 3 doz. ornamental tacks.

The work may be started by shaping the four legs and cutting the
mortises for the rails. Tenons are cut on the ends of the rails to fit
in the mortises made in the posts. They are then glued together, care
being taken to get the stool perfectly square.

The top frame can now be made and covered with the sheet of brass. The
frame has mitered corners and the inside of the frame must be even with
the inside of the rails. This in turn is fastened to the stool with the
two hinges on the back and the elbow catch on the front side to keep it
closed.

[Illustration: Detail of the Foot Warmer]

The design on the brass can be made by tacking it on a board, laying out
the design and piercing the background with some sharp-pointed tool.
This leaves the design raised with a smooth surface.

The brass can now be removed from the board, placed on the frame and
fastened with the ornamental tacks.

Turn the stool bottom side up and line the inside of the rails with
asbestos; then place the bricks on the inside of the stool. Both should
fit up tight to the brass when the bottom is in place.

[Illustration: Oak Stool with Brass Cover]

The stool is now ready for the finish, which can be of some stain to
match the other furniture in the room where it is to be used.

A PLATE RACK FOR THE DINING ROOM

This plate rack can be made of any kind of wood and finished to match
other pieces of furniture in the room, but as it is of mission design,
oak is the most suitable lumber, as it takes the mission stain so
nicely.

The material required is as follows:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.
1 top, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 48 in., S-2-S.
2 plate rails, 7/8 by 6-1/4 by 32 in., S-2-S.
2 back boards, 7/8 by 7-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
2 side boards, 7/8 by 5-1/4 by 25 in., S-2-S.
4 shelves, 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 8-1/4 in., S-2-S.
2 plate rests, 7/8 by 7/8 by 32 in., S-4-S.

[Illustration: Detail of Plate Rack]

This stock is specified to exact thickness, but some allowance is made
for trimming on the edges and ends.

Begin work by squaring up the posts to length and beveling the top ends,
then trim the back and side boards. These are nailed together, lapping
the back board over the side board. The posts are fastened with dowels
placed at equal distances apart. Hot glue is used in the