es, the
Bible and "Pilgrim's Progress." The Kaffir language is eminently suited
to the former; good Kaffir linguists will tell you that many of the
Psalms sound better in Mr. Soga's version than in English. His
rendering of "Pilgrim's Progress," too, is a masterpiece.
Tiyo Soga was a tall man of slender build and with a stooping figure.
Even at the time I tell of a short, hacking cough gave evidence of the
consumption which some years later caused his death. He was not alone a
deeply cultivated scholar, but a Christian gentleman in the fullest
sense of the term.
We passed Kreli's kraal, but the chief was in retirement under the
hands of a witch-doctor, so we did not see him. The scenery along the
watershed between the Kei and the Kobonqaba is wonderfully beautiful.
The weather was calm and clear; the ocean like a world of sapphire
fringed with snow. The populous villages of the Natives stood on every
ledge; sleek cattle grazed in every valley. The people looked
prosperous and contented. We met civility everywhere; milk was offered
us at every kraal. I visited the same locality a few years ago and
sojourned for a few weeks near the site of the old Soga camp, but the
season was summer, and both ticks and snakes were in evidence to a most
unpleasant degree. The natives also had changed; no longer were they so
civil or so hospitable. Revisiting the scenes of one's youth is usually
an unsatisfactory experience.
We spent a week with the Sogas, and then went to the camp of the Fynns,
a few miles away. Here, also, we were hospitably entertained. There
were three Fynn brothers, and their aggregate height was nineteen feet.
Late one afternoon, when returning from a ride, I had my first sight of
wild dogs. In crossing a deep, bushy kloof by a bridle-path I reached
an open space. Here I saw five large, smoke-colored animals. Two were
squatting on their haunches, the others were standing. I passed within
about twenty-five yards of them. They made no hostile demonstration,
neither did they attempt to run away. When I related my experience at
the camp, I was told that the animals I had seen were wild dogs, a pack
of which had for some time been marauding in the vicinity.
I returned to King William's Town via Tsomo and Tembani. We traveled
mostly, by night. My companion for I had left Mr. Samuel's party was a
trader. He carried four hundred sovereigns in a holster. We off-saddled
at several kraals, and on each occasion the gold
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