passed, for the whole range was lashed by a
succession of furious thunder storms.

From Newcastle onward I adopted a different system one which enabled me
to travel much more quickly. At Newcastle I went to the Resident
Magistrate's office, and through the police secured the services of a
strong native to act as carrier of my swag as far as Ladysmith. I left
ten shillings the amount of remuneration agreed upon with the Chief
Constable, to be drawn when the native returned with a note from me
certifying that he had done his duty. It was a wonderful relief to be
free from the straps which had galled my shoulders for so long. The
distance to Ladysmith is, I think, about a hundred miles. We covered it
easily in three nights.

At Ladysmith I disposed of my tent for ten shillings, which was less
than a quarter of its value. But my money, was rapidly running out; the
heavy rains had on several occasions driven me to ask for shelter, and
this always meant spending money. At Ladysmith I engaged another native
to accompany me to Maritzburg. This was necessary; had I attempted to
travel alone I should certainly have lost my way.

The heat for it was now midsummer was extremely trying. I accordingly
made it my rule to travel by night, trusting to being able to get a
sheltered place wherein to sleep by day. This kind of accommodation
which I was usually fortunate in being able to secure did not cost
anything. When I bought food at a farmhouse I would usually ask to be
allowed to lie down in one of the sheds.

The thunderstorms were a serious embarrassment. In the comparatively
flat Transvaal they did not matter so much, but among the convoluted
hills which are such a salient feature of the Natal landscape, some
kloof which ordinarily held a mere rivulet was apt to be suddenly
filled by, a roaring torrent. Occasionally I was hung up for hours at a
time by such obstacles.

At a small village, the name of which I forget, but which must have
been about forty miles from Maritzburg on the Ladysmith side, I was
detained for two days by a cold, drenching rain. I was forced to take
refuge in the hotel. Here the cost of accommodation for myself and my
bearer depleted my capital almost to vanishing-point.

The weather cleared, and I made another start, but the condition of the
roads was such that I was unable to travel at more than half my usual
rate. Next day, just after I crossed the Umgeni River, the rain came
down again. I intended