he corner, where Broadway joins Madison Square, was the
Bartholdi, celebrated by the patronage of Mr. Fitzsimmons, alias Ruby
Robert, the Freckled One, the Kangaroo, and beyond, still standing, a
memento of yesterday, Dorlon's, uptown heir to the glories of the old
Fulton Market place, which boasted a history that goes back
three-quarters of a century. A relic of the old establishment, a
mahogany table round which Cornelius Vanderbilt and Judge Roosevelt (the
grandfather of T.R.), and John Jacob Astor, and John Swan used to sit
at their oyster dinner consisting of oysters raw, stewed, roasted in the
shell, and broiled, is still preserved.
Perhaps, at night, the shades of famous dishes of the past come forth
from remodelled walls or forgotten cupboards and meet in the Park to
recall the glories that once were. For all about are memories. Beyond
where the Fifth Avenue was was the Hoffman House where one went to dine
as well as to feast the eyes on the twenty-five-thousand-dollar
Bougereau of "Nymphs and Satyr," and "Pan and Bacchante." Then the
Albermarle and Saint James, the Brunswick, and the famous south-west
corner of the Avenue and Twenty-sixth Street. The Brunswick had its
adherents, who proclaimed its table the best in New York, and the land
once rang with a Tammany dinner that was held there. But that south-west
corner. It was famous as "Del's" and it was famous when it was Martin's.
Who that knew it will ever forget what was known as the "Broadway Room,"
and the special soup for every day of the week, and the _cuisine Russe_
with the _plats du jour_ for luncheon and dinner, and the vodka that one
might have if one wished? And also, the chestnut soup!
If your palate of yesterday craved the exotic in the way of food there
was the Indian Palace that once flourished at No. 325 Fifth Avenue. In
1900, a Prince Ranji Something or Other, who claimed to be a son of the
Sultan of Sulu or Beloochistan, opened it, establishing the first
smoking room for women in the city. He brought the aspect of the East in
the shape of Indians, and dancing girls, and jugglers, and Hindoo tango
dancers, and flower girls, and cigarette girls, and music girls, all in
their native costumes. There was prosperity for a time, and rich
promise, until the Prince ran against the callous, unsympathetic
Occident in the shape of the contract labour law.
On up the Avenue as far as the Plaza, where, as early as 1870, "Boss"
Tweed attempted to erect
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