e no great Cunning,
after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_.
We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd,
_Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants,
and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be
eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which
I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_,
_Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young
Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_,
_Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits;
Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_,
_Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other
_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_
and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all
of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our
_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves
to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves
to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_,
or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more
Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is.
But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more
proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some
think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction;
others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent
Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces
Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to
the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of
_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with
their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given:
[60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_
_Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_.
And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m
arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary,
[62]_Grataque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_.
But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating
plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating
Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to
expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the
spirit
|