the various alizarin Bordeaux. The only dyes in
this group which appear somewhat behind the rest in point of fastness
are purpurin and alizarin maroon.

On this same diagram we notice, also, fast blues and dark greens, of
which we have no similar representatives among the natural coloring
matters. I refer to alizarin blue, alizarin cyanin, alizarin indigo,
alizarin green, and coerulin.

Further, an excellent group of coloring matters, giving fast browns
and greens with copper and iron mordants respectively, is formed by
naphthol green, resorcinol green, gambin, and dioxin.

The only fugitive dyes of the class now under consideration are some
of the yellows, gallamin blue and gallocyanin.

If we now turn to examine the colors given by these artificial
"mordant dyes" on silk, we notice, also, a good series of fast colors
similar to those which they give on wool; and even on cotton we see
many fast colors, of which we have no representatives among the
dyewoods.

If we were not prepared to find so few really fast natural dyes,
surely we cannot but be surprised to find what a considerable number
of fast dyes are to be met with among the coal tar coloring matters
requiring the aid of mordants.

On these diagrams, the first vertical column shows the stain given by
the coloring matter alone; the remaining columns show the colors
obtained when the same coloring matters are applied in conjunction
with the several mordants--chromium, aluminum, tin, copper, and iron.

It was formerly held that the office of a mordant was merely to fix
the coloring matter upon the fiber; we now know, however, and it is
plainly illustrated by these diagrams, that this view is erroneous,
for the mordant not only fixes but also develops the color; the
mordant and coloring matter chemically combine with each other, and
the resultant compound represents the really useful pigment or dye. If
a coloring matter is combined with different mordants, the dyes thus
obtained represent distinct chemical products, and it is quite
natural, therefore, to find them differing from each other in color,
and their resistance toward light.

Knowing this, it is clearly the duty of the dyer to apply each
coloring matter of this class with a variety of mordants, and to
select the particular combination which gives him the desired color
and fastness. By adopting this method, however, his selection would
ultimately comprise a large number of coloring matters paired wi