unappropriate and unfeeling, particularly when one recalls
that it is a modern building which one contemplates. The window
openings, too, recall rather those of a dwelling-house than of a
religious edifice. So, when all is said and done, there is not much in
favour of Carlsruhe's churches.

One link binds Carlsruhe with the traditions of ecclesiastical art in
Germany, and that is a most acceptable statue of Ervin von Steinbach,
the master-builder of Strasburg's cathedral. It flanks the principal
portal of the Polytechnic School.

_Darmstadt_

Though more ancient than Carlsruhe, Darmstadt has a prosperous modern
appearance, and consequently lacks those lovable qualities of a
tumble-down mediaeval town which usually surround architectural treasures
of the first rank.

The Stadthaus, or Hotel de Ville, dates from the fifteenth century, and
the Palace from 1605 (in its reconstructed form); but there is nothing
of sufficient interest about the churches to warrant the devotee of
ecclesiastical architecture ever setting foot within their doors.

As delightful little cities, with tree-bordered promenades and a general
air of prosperity and modernity, Carlsruhe and Darmstadt are well
enough; but, as the setting for religious shrines, they are of no
importance.

Behind the Stadthaus, in the old town, will be found the Protestant
place of worship. It is in unconvincing Gothic, with nothing remarkable
about its constructive elements, and little or nothing with respect to
its details. One feature might perhaps arrest the attention. This is a
retable of the conventional orthodox form which occupies the usual
place--even in this Protestant church--at the end of the choir.

The Catholic church is situated on a great rectangular open place, known
as the Wilhelminen Platz. It is a recent construction, and accordingly
atrocious.

In form it is an enormous rotunda, one hundred and thirty-four feet in
circumference, lighted by a shaft in the centre of its immense cupola.
The porch by which one enters this rather pagan-looking structure is
simple, and by far the most gracious feature of the edifice. On the
frieze one reads, in great golden letters, the single word "Deo." In the
lunette which surmounts this porch is a sculptured figure of the Virgin
between two adoring angels, and on a marble tablet is engraved:

LUDOVICO
HASSIAE ET AD RHENUM MAGNO DUCI
PATRI PATRIAE

The interior, more even than tha