mals. In winter many of
them remained at Sitka instead of returning to their homes. Their time
was spent in idleness, spending the summer's earnings in the pleasures
and vices of the white man. One who saw them in their kazhims, as their
dwellings were often called, describes them: "Morally, the Aleut is not
bloodthirsty. He delights in simple rejoicings and will play you a game
of chess with walrus ivory pieces--a duck for a pawn and a penguin for a
king--with the greatest of good humor. Even when squabbles arrive the
argument is carried on in poetry to the accompaniment of dancing, and
one would be inclined to prefer the Aleut angry to the Aleut amiable,
did he not know he also dances when festive and when religious.

"Among them the social duty of visiting has its drawbacks. Several
families live together in the kazhims, and during one's visit they all
lie around in every conceivable posture, jolly and genial, naked and
unashamed. The fumes of the blubber oil lamps and stoves, the stores of
raw meat, the many naked bodies, well smeared with grease and scented
with primitive unguents, combine to make an atmosphere difficult to
tolerate and not easy to describe. Yet, if you will, you may enjoy the
warmest hospitality, and have heaped upon you the most assiduous
attentions."

CHAPTER V

CHURCHES AND SCHOOLS

It was not until 1816 that a priest arrived at Sitka, and in that year
the first entry is made in the church records under the name of
Alexander Sokolof. A church was built at the south of the street, which
was then called the Governor's Walk, almost opposite the present
cathedral. A monument marks the spot where the altar stood, and a cross
marks the site of a grave, said to be that of a priest. Tradition also
tells that there are two graves there, and assigns the other one to the
daughter of Baron Wrangell, the chief manager of the Company at one
time.[12]

[Illustration: Cathedral of St. Michael]

The present cathedral of St. Michael, which is the central point of
historic interest, in the center of the town at Lincoln Street, was
dedicated November 20, 1848. It fronts on a small court and with its
green painted spire surmounted by the Greek Cross is so typically
Russian that it might readily be believed to have been transplanted from
old Russia. The chime of bells, a gift from the Church at Moscow, would
be worthy of any shrine. The building is in the form of a cross, has
three sanctuaries and th