underclothes. (The
clash of the surf and the thin female voices echo in my memory.) We had
that day a native crew and steersman, Kauanui; it was our first
experience of Polynesian seamanship, which consists in hugging every
point of land. There is no thought in this of saving time, for they will
pull a long way in to skirt a point that is embayed. It seems that, as
they can never get their houses near enough the surf upon the one side,
so they can never get their boats near enough upon the other. The
practice in bold water is not so dangerous as it looks--the reflex from
the rocks sending the boat off. Near beaches with a heavy run of sea, I
continue to think it very hazardous, and find the composure of the
natives annoying to behold. We took unmingled pleasure, on the way out,
to see so near at hand the beach and the wonderful colours of the surf.
On the way back, when the sea had risen and was running strong against
us, the fineness of the steersman's aim grew more embarrassing. As we
came abreast of the sea-front, where the surf broke highest, Kauanui
embraced the occasion to light his pipe, which then made the circuit of
the boat--each man taking a whiff or two, and, ere he passed it on,
filling his lungs and cheeks with smoke. Their faces were all puffed out
like apples as we came abreast of the cliff foot, and the bursting surge
fell back into the boat in showers. At the next point "cocanetti" was
the word, and the stroke borrowed my knife, and desisted from his
labours to open nuts. These untimely indulgences may be compared to the
tot of grog served out before a ship goes into action.

My purpose in this visit led me first to the boys' school, for Hatiheu
is the university of the north islands. The hum of the lesson came out
to meet us. Close by the door, where the draught blew coolest, sat the
lay brother; around him, in a packed half-circle, some sixty
high-coloured faces set with staring eyes; and in the background of the
barn-like room benches were to be seen, and blackboards with sums on
them in chalk. The brother rose to greet us, sensibly humble. Thirty
years he had been there, he said, and fingered his white locks as a
bashful child pulls out his pinafore. "_Et point de resultats, monsieur,
presque pas de resultats._" He pointed to the scholars: "You see, sir,
all the youth of Nuka-hiva and Ua-pu. Between the ages of six and
fifteen this is all that remains; and it is but a few years since we had
a hund