taking possession of the islands and forcibly introducing the
Catholic religion.
It is remarkable that the soil of Guaham, under the first stratum of
earth, consists of coral blocks not yet quite dissolved; from which it
may be conjectured, that a former group of low coral islands, as well as
the basin which they enclosed, were forced upwards by the power of
subterranean fire; and in this manner the island of Guaham has been
formed. This hypothesis is confirmed by Mr. Hoffman's discovery of a
crater on the island, with a fire still burning in its abyss.
The fortress, standing on what is called the Devil's Point, intended for
the defence of the town of Agadna, was so peacefully disposed, that not
one of its cannons was fit for use. I saw, to my great astonishment, in
the harbour Caldera de Apra, ships bearing the English and North
American flags. The Spaniards do not usually permit the entrance of
foreign vessels; but I was informed by the captains of these, that the
whalers who pursue their occupations on the coast of Japan, now
frequently choose Guaham for refitting and victualling their ships. I
also heard, with much pleasure, that they exclusively use our Admiral
Krusenstern's chart of the Japanese coast; and they assured me, that
objects even of minor importance are laid down in it with the greatest
accuracy. How much cause have seamen for thankfulness to one who has
provided them with such a chart! their lives frequently depend on the
correctness of these guides; and an erroneous one may be worse than none
at all.
As I only intended stopping here a few days, and the harbour is by no
means safe, I determined not to enter it, but sent an officer to the
Governor, with a list of fresh provisions which I requested his
assistance in procuring. On the following morning, I rowed with some of
my officers ashore, and we were received by the Governor, Don Gango
Errero, who had already taken measures for supplying our wants, with
great civility, though not without some degree of Spanish stateliness.
His government here confirms an observation repeatedly made, that a few
years of a bad administration are sufficient to undo all that a good one
may have effected by a long series of exertions. Eight years ago, when
Medenilla was governor, the most perfect content, and prosperity to a
certain extent, existed in Guaham; and now, by the fault of one man,
every thing bears a totally different aspect. So much depends on the
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