been the scene
of superstitious horrors round which hang the mystery of an almost
unknown past.

After dinner, we prepared to mount the hill, and explore the smaller
cells in which the hermits of Buddhism had formerly dwelt. The ascent,
though very steep, was not difficult, and, once gained, afforded a
glorious view of the island and the distant sea. The caves, with their
singular stone-carvings and reliefs, were also very interesting, and
must have been pleasant abodes for the worthy men who there had aimed
at a pleasanter saintship than that attained by the tortures to which
the followers of Brahma, and of his legion of subordinate deities,
often subject themselves. We amused ourselves for some time examining
these cells, and not till the sun was sinking behind the taller trees
of the jungle below, did we think of returning. Our descent, however,
was to be effected by another and far more difficult pathway than that
by which we had mounted the hill--steps or niches irregularly cut in
the mountain's side, offering the only means of reaching the cave
below. My head turns at the very recollection! The chief of the hamals
had followed us; I looked at his naked feet, that with such a charming
certainty grasped the rock, and resolved on making him my _cavalier
servente_, backing my gracious intimation to that effect with the
promise of a rupee for guerdon, at which he appeared more pleased than
at the honour of the selection; and thus grasping the arm of my black
knight, I began the terrible task before me, having purposely lingered
out of sight till the rest of the party were at the bottom.

But, alas! a very kind, very good-natured, very stout gentleman in
tight boots--I had not observed how _very_ tight they were!--perceived
my incongruous escort, and hastened back to take his place. In vain I
represented my partiality for my companion of shoeless feet and steady
eye; he was as incredulous as Desdemona's father was of her love for
the Moor. In vain I deprecated 'giving him so much trouble;' his
politeness was resolute; and I was compelled to accept the assistance
of his hand, and with a beating heart to make the first step. Alas! in
this instance it was not only _la premier pas qui coute_; the fourth
and fifth were worse; at the sixth my courage failed me utterly, and I
felt an insane desire to throw myself over the precipice, and thus
terminate the horror of fear and giddiness that distracted me. I
begged my companion