l to be seen. From Waterfall Onder the train puffed
up a stupendous hill, the gradient being one foot in twenty, and to
assist its progress a cogwheel engine was attached behind. In this
fashion a two-thousand-feet rise was negotiated, the bright moonlight
enhancing the beauty of the sudden and rocky ascent by increasing the
mystery of the vast depths below. We then found ourselves at Waterfall
Boven, in a perfectly cool atmosphere, and also, as regards the
landscape, in a completely different country, which latter fact we only
fully appreciated with the morning light, as we drew near to Pretoria.
The stranger landing at Delagoa Bay, and travelling through those bleak
and barren mountains, might well ask himself the reason of the late
prolonged and costly war; but as he approaches the Rand, and suddenly
sees the rows and rows of mining shafts and chimneys, which are the
visible signs of the hidden wealth, the veil is lifted and the recent
events of history are explained. At that time, owing to the war, there
were no signs of agriculture, and in many districts there appeared to be
absolute desolation.

At Johannesburg we stayed at Sunnyside, as the guests of Lord Milner.
This residence is small and unpretentious, but exceedingly comfortable,
and has the advantage of commanding wide views over the surrounding
country. Our host was then engrossed in his difficult task of satisfying
the wants and desires of many communities and nationalities, whose
countless differences of opinion seemed wellnigh irreconcilable. During
our stay the visit of the Right Hon. J. Chamberlain was announced as
likely to take place during the next few months, and the advent of this
distinguished Colonial Minister was a subject of great satisfaction to
the harassed High Commissioner. As at Cape Town, his staff was composed
of charming men, but all young and with no administrative experience.
Among its members were included Colonel W. Lambton, who was Military
Secretary; Captain Henley and Lord Brooke, A.D.C.'s; and Mr. Walrond.

The Golden City itself was, to all outward appearances, as thriving as
ever, with its busy population, its crowded and excellent shops, and its
general evidences of opulence, which appeared to overbalance--or, in any
case, wish to conceal--any existing poverty or distress. Among many
friends we met was a French lady, formerly the Marquise d'Herve, but
who had married, as her second husband, Comte Jacque de Waru. This
enterp