esa's four-mile-an-hour strides, was very amusing. The whole of the
scenery--hill, dale, and lake--was extremely beautiful. The Wanguana in
my escort compared the view to their own beautiful Poani (coast); but in
my opinion it far surpassed anything I ever saw, either from the sea or
upon the coast of Zanzibar.

The king rose betimes in the morning and called me, unwashed and very
uncomfortable, to picnic with him, during the collection of the boats.
The breakfast, eaten in the open court, consisted of sundry baskets of
roast-beef and plantain-squash, folded in plantain-leaves. He sometimes
ate with a copper knife and picker, not forked--but more usually like
a dog, with both hands. The bits too tough for his mastication he would
take from his mouth and give as a treat to the pages, who n'yanzigged,
and swallowed them with much seeming relish. Whatever remained over
was then divided by the boys, and the baskets taken to the cooks. Pombe
served as tea, coffee, and beer for the king; but his guests might think
themselves very lucky if they ever got a drop of it.

Now for the lake. Everybody in a hurry falls into his place the best way
he can--Wakungu leading, and women behind. They rattle along, through
plantains and shrubs, under large trees, seven, eight, and nine feet in
diameter, till the beautiful waters are reached--a picture of the Rio
scenery, barring that of the higher mountains in the background of that
lovely place, which are here represented by the most beautiful little
hills. A band of fifteen drums of all sizes, called the Mazaguzo,
playing with the regularity of a lot of factory engines at work,
announced the king's arrival, and brought all the boats to the
shore--but not as in England, where Jack, with all the consequence of a
lord at home, invites the ladies to be seated, and enjoys the sight of
so many pretty faces. Here every poor fellow, with his apprehensions
written in his face, leaps over the gunwale into the water--ducking
his head for fear of being accused of gazing on the fair sex, which
is death--and bides patiently his time. They were dressed in plantain
leaves, looking like grotesque Neptunes. The king, in his red coat and
wideawake, conducted the arrangements, ordering all to their proper
places--the women, in certain boats, the Wakungu and Wanguana in others,
whilst I sat in the same boat with him at his feet, three women holding
mbugus of pombe behind. The king's Kisuahali now came into pla