ity appointed to watch us as dangerous wizards
and objects of terror. It was all the same to us, as we now only thought
of the prospect of relief before us, and laughed at what we had gone
through.

Rising out of the Uthungu valley, we walked over rolling ground, drained
in the dips by miry rush rivulets. The population was thinly scattered
in small groups of grass huts, where the scrub jungle had been cleared
away. On the road we passed cairns, to which every passer-by contributed
a stone. Of the origin of the cairns I could not gain any information,
though it struck me as curious I should find them in the first country
we had entered governed by the Wahuma, as I formerly saw the same thing
in the Somali country, which doubtless, in earlier days, was governed by
a branch of the Abyssinians. Arrived at our camping, we were immediately
pounced upon by a deputation of officers, who said they had been sent by
Semamba, the officer of this district. He lived ten miles from the road;
but hearing of our approach, he had sent these men to take his dues. At
first I objected to pay, lest he should afterwards treat me as Virembo
had done; but I gave way in the end, and paid nine wires, two chintz
and two bindera cloths, as the guides said they would stand my security
against any further molestation.

Rattling on again as merry as larks, over the same red sandstone
formation, we entered a fine forest, and trended on through it as a
stiff pace until we arrived at the head of a deep valley called Lohuati,
which was so beautiful we instinctively pulled up to admire it. Deep
down its well-wooded side below us was a stream, of most inviting aspect
for a trout-fisher, flowing towards the N'yanza. Just beyond it the
valley was clothed with fine trees and luxuriant vegetation of all
descriptions, amongst which was conspicuous the pretty pandana palm,
and rich gardens of plantains; whilst thistles of extraordinary size
and wild indigo were the more common weeds. The land beyond that again
rolled back in high undulations, over which, in the far distance, we
could see a line of cones, red and bare on their tops, guttered down
with white streaks, looking for all the world like recent volcanoes;
and in the far background, rising higher than all, were the rich grassy
hills of Karague and Kishakka.

On resuming our march, a bird, called khongota, flew across our path;
seeing which, old Nasib, beaming with joy, in his superstitious belief
cried