t it, but
recommend you before doing so to add Keating's insect powder to your
other toilet necessaries.

I was travelling to Madrid in an express train which had been rushing
along at the pace of sixteen miles an hour, when suddenly it stopped. I
leant out of the window, asking where we were.

'Xiormonez!' answered the guard.

'I thought we did not stop at Xiormonez.'

'We do not stop at Xiormonez,' he replied impassively.

'But we are stopping now!'

'That may be; but we are going on again.'

I had already learnt that it was folly to argue with a Spanish guard,
and, drawing back my head, I sat down. But, looking at my watch, I saw
that it was only ten. I should never again have a chance of inspecting
the eyebrows of Joseph of Arimathea unless I chartered a special train,
so, seizing the opportunity and my bag, I jumped out.

The only porter told me that everyone in Xiormonez was asleep at that
hour, and recommended me to spend the night in the waiting-room, but I
bribed him heavily; I offered him two pesetas, which is nearly
fifteenpence, and, leaving the train to its own devices, he shouldered
my bag and started off.

Along a stony road we walked into the dark night, the wind blowing cold
and bitter, and the clouds chasing one another across the sky. In front,
I could see nothing but the porter hurrying along, bent down under the
weight of my bag, and the wind blew icily. I buttoned up my coat. And
then I regretted the warmth of the carriage, the comfort of my corner
and my rug; I wished I had peacefully continued my journey to Madrid--I
was on the verge of turning back as I heard the whistling of the train.
I hesitated, but the porter hurried on, and fearing to lose him in the
night, I sprang forwards. Then the puffing of the engine, and on the
smoke the bright reflection of the furnace, and the train steamed away;
like Abd-er-Rahman, I felt that I had flung my scabbard into the flames.

Still the porter hurried on, bent down under the weight of my bag, and I
saw no light in front of me to announce the approach to a town. On each
side, bordering the road, were trees, and beyond them darkness. And
great black clouds hastened after one another across the heavens. Then,
as we walked along, we came to a rough stone cross, and lying on the
steps before it was a woman with uplifted hands. And the wind blew
bitter and keen, freezing the marrow of one's bones. What prayers had
she to offer that she must kneel th