FREE BOOKS

Author's List




PREV.   NEXT  
|<   251   252   253   254   255   256   257   258   259   260   261   262   263   264   265   266   267   268   269   270   271   272   273   274   275  
276   277   278   279   280   281   282   283   284   285   286   287   288   289   290   291   292   293   294   295   296   297   298   299   300   >>   >|  
veloping Box] can be made in the same manner. Use a small wooden clip in taking the plates out of the box, being careful not to scratch the sensitive film. --Contributed by R.J. Smith, Milwaukee, Wis. ** Staining Wood [221] A very good method of staining close-grained woods is to use muriatic acid. The acid is put on with a brush like any ordinary stain. The colors thus obtained are artistic and most beautiful, and cannot be duplicated by any known pigment. The more coats applied the darker the color will be. This method of staining has the advantage of requiring no wiping or rubbing. --Contributed by August T. Neyer, One Cloud, Cal. ** Sheet-Metal Whisk-Broom Holder [221] A whisk-broom holder such as is shown in the accompanying picture may be easily made by the amateur. The tools needed are few: a pair of tin shears, a metal block of some kind upon which to pound when riveting, a hammer or mallet, several large nails, and a stout board upon which to work up the design. A rivet punch is desirable, though not absolutely necessary. The material required is a sheet of No. 24 gauge copper or brass of a size equal to that of the proposed holder, plus a 3/8-in. border all around, into which to place the screws that are to be used to hold the metal to the board while pounding it. The design shown in the picture is 6 by 8 in. at the widest part and has proven a satisfactory holder for a small broom. Carefully work out the design desired on a piece of drawing paper, both outline and decoration, avoiding sharp curves in the outline because they are hard to follow with the shears when cutting the metal. If the design is to be of two-part symmetry, like the one shown, draw one part, then fold on a center line and duplicate this by inserting double-surfaced carbon paper and tracing the part already drawn. With this same carbon paper transfer the design to the metal. Fasten the metal to the board firmly, using 1/2-in. screws placed about 1 in. apart in holes previously punched in the margin with a nail set or nail. To flatten the metal preparatory to fastening it to the board, place a block of wood upon it and pound on this block, never upon the metal directly, [Illustration: Completed Holder Brass Fastened to Board-Method of Riveting] or the surface will be dented and look bad in the finished piece. Take the nail, a 10 or 20-penny wire or cut, and file it to a chisel edge, rounding it just enough
PREV.   NEXT  
|<   251   252   253   254   255   256   257   258   259   260   261   262   263   264   265   266   267   268   269   270   271   272   273   274   275  
276   277   278   279   280   281   282   283   284   285   286   287   288   289   290   291   292   293   294   295   296   297   298   299   300   >>   >|  



Top keywords:

design

 

holder

 
outline
 

shears

 
picture
 

staining

 

method

 

screws

 

Holder

 

carbon


Contributed

 
curves
 

symmetry

 

avoiding

 
follow
 
cutting
 
desired
 

border

 

pounding

 
Carefully

drawing
 

satisfactory

 

widest

 

proven

 
decoration
 
Method
 

Riveting

 

surface

 

dented

 

Fastened


directly
 

Illustration

 

Completed

 

finished

 

chisel

 

rounding

 

fastening

 

preparatory

 

tracing

 
surfaced

transfer

 
proposed
 
double
 

inserting

 

center

 
duplicate
 

Fasten

 
firmly
 

margin

 
punched